McCall’s M8028 Rayon Spandex Jumpsuit

I picked up McCalls Pattern Company m8028 at the last Hobby Lobby sale and suddenly had the urge to make it.

Usually when I decide to buy a pattern I browse Pinterest for inspiration, so I already had some ideas waiting for me.

I decided on view B with short sleeves to conserve fabric on my first go (just in case it didn’t go well) and I also decided that I was going to straighten out the lower leg to add some width (with the plan that I could slim the leg again if I decided to in the end)

The pattern envelope stated this is “very loose fitting” After consulting the cut chart and the finished measurements on the pattern pieces, I decided on size large, which is my measured size.

I sewed the garment without deviating from the instructions (except in the case of finishing raw edges with my serger)

The end result is just as I hoped.

On the McCalls Instagram page, Jackie stated this can be worn on or off the shoulder, I found the elastic measurement to fit that description perfectly.

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It was a #sewpinterest win!

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: McCalls Pattern Company m8028
Pattern sizing: S-XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes
Fabric used: Rayon Spandex
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: yes Did you alter the pattern in any way? Yes. I extended the side seam from the hip straight down to the hem line to add width through the lower leg
Was there anything you disliked or would change? Nope, it was great.
Would you sew it again? Yes. I would like to make to cuffed leg version as well
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner to Intermediate
Pants: Do the front and back have separate rises? Yes
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 5/8″

Beaded Lace Alley Cat Leo from Lil Luxe Collection

I have written about the  Lil Luxe Collection Alley Cat Romper  here and here.

But my favorite option for the Alley Cat is the Leo and it’s perfect now that my little one is starting gymnastics.SONY DSCAlthough this one is just for play as I’m not sure her coaches would appreciate a beaded train for class. haha!¬†SONY DSCThe Alley Cat has lots of great options. I bought the full pattern collection, which includes Romper, Leotard and Dress. ¬†To best suit your needs, you can buy the collection as a complete set, just the leo and top, just the romper and dress, or just the romper and leo. ¬†All options include long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless and the bodice is fully lined.SONY DSCI can’t remember where I got the teal cotton/lycra for this long sleeve leo. But I know I bought a bunch of these beaded lace scraps from Fabric Merchants Retail in LA more about Fabric Merchants here.SONY DSCThe beaded lace is pretty heavy so I gathered and attached it to a piece of 3/4″ elastic (leaving about an inch of lace at the top) to help the bodice hold the weight of the lace and then when my Leo was fully constructed I just attached it by top stitching with a zigzag stitch from side seam to side seam. Maybe not the best method, but it got the job done and it looks beautiful.¬†SONY DSCIn the smaller sizes, the Leo is a great scrap buster! I used the little bit of lace for the bodice and appliqu√©d the extra little bits to the front and side of bodice.¬†SONY DSCFor the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I determined my daughter’s size as 3T using the pattern size chart . ¬†Chest 20.5″, Waist 20.5″, Hips 21. She is 36″ tall. I opted to sew a straight 3T.¬†SONY DSCI‚Äôd love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion¬†so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I highly suggest joining the Lil Luxe Group on Facebook to be inspired by all the beautiful creations others are making with this pattern.

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Lil Luxe Collection Alley Cat Leotard
Pattern sizing: 18 months to Girls 10 (size chart available here)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes. Detailed information and line professional line drawings were provided for each step.
Fabric used: Cotton Lycra and Beaded Lace
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes and No¬†…pattern suggests Medium Weight 2-Way knits with good recovery. But judging by the tester photos and others in the group it seems people are using Cotton Lycras and Brushed Polys with success.
Did you alter the pattern in any way? I added the lace train and applique. Otherwise this is an exact to pattern 3T.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? My daughter loves it, so I am happy.
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 3/8″ throughoutSONY DSCSee you next time!

The Dynamic Duo

This blog post could also be called the “Dynamic Duo”, “How to Make the Most of Your Custom Knit Fabrics” or ¬†“When Custom Fabric Cost is Worth It” …although, full disclosure, I bought this knit second hand at a discounted price from the Knit Destash Facebook Group.

These two are fire and ice, but they both agree on one thing:

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How to Train Your Dragon. A funny thing to bond over, but I’ll take it! So, when I saw this fabric posted. I knew my kids HAD to have it and I knew I had to make less than a yard of it REALLY stretch.

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First, I pulled out one of my favorite kids patterns, the Yo Ho Henley from Patterns for Pirates. It is my favorite basic tee for kids.  (Info on Moto Pants)

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I made this 100% true to pattern, so there is not much to say here. He sizes into a size 6 with size 7 length, so all I needed to do was cut a six and add some length. I love making him tees. Ready to wear shirts are either too broad for his thin/tall frame or too short.

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I knew I wanted to color block this and I don’t have a vinyl cutting machine (plus my embroidery option on the Brother SE400 is pretty small) so I pulled out some fabric iron-on paper and just made a quick little iron-on, with a quote that I love.

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Adding a border to an iron-on like this gives it more definition so that you don’t have a weird white square or an awkwardly cut out quote. It turned out awesome! (and it helped me use less HtTYD fabric)

For my daughter, since I am loving the Alley Cat Romper from¬†Lil Luxe Collection¬†right now, I knew that the short bodice would be perfect for conserving fabric. I checked in with the Lil Luxe Facebook Group for inspiration first. (at the end of my fabric Tetris I had just enough for the leg cuffs, so that was an added bonus, I didn’t plan for that)

 

I did a full review of the The Alley Cat with info on sizing and fit here: Alley Cat Romper by Lil Luxe Collection

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Both times I have made the romper version I have needed to add back ties to keep the neckline from slipping. They are super cute and I love them, but the romper does not seem to want to stay put (I even tried adding clear elastic this time.) ¬†However, in the Leotard option I have not had this issue. This may be an exclusive issue to my daughter’s shape as I have seen other littles wearing it just fine without the ties.

At the end of the day, she is happy. So I am happy and little fit issues don’t bother me.

 

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I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

I highly suggest joining the Patterns for Pirates and  Lil Luxe groups on Facebook to be inspired by all the beautiful creations others are making with this pattern.

 

THE NITTY-GRITTY for the Yo Ho Henley:

Pattern Description: Patterns for Pirates Yo Ho Henley 
Pattern sizing: 3 months to 14
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes. Detailed information and photos of construction are provided.
Fabric used: Cotton Lycra
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes
Did you alter the pattern in any way?  No, I added length for his height only.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? No, we really love it!
Would you sew it again? Yes I’ve already made it 10 times or so.
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 1/2″ throughout

 

See you next time!

Alley Cat Romper from Lil Luxe Collection

Lil Luxe Collection is a beautiful modern-classic clothing pattern design company from a self-taught garment designer with a serious background in the areas of Architecture, Interior, Graphic and Fashion Design. Her background in Architecture really shows with her “Urban Princess” looks. Read her full bio here¬†(I love when designers make the time to let us know more about themselves). The Alley Cat Collection is my first purchase from Lil Luxe and I’m sure it will not be the last (she has some truly swoon-worthy dresses).¬†¬†I selected it with my little casual, acrobatics loving, girl in mind.

And it did not disappoint. She clearly loves it.

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The Alley Cat has lots of great options. I bought the full pattern collection, which includes Romper, Leotard and Dress.  To best suit your needs, you can buy the collection as a complete set, just the leo and top, just the romper and dress, or just the romper and leo.  All options include long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless and the bodice is fully lined.

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I usually shop in Fashion District in LA and both of these fabrics came from downtown. If you are a local or are heading to the area, you definitely want to check the tips for navigating the district. Bonus: In the smaller sizes, this project is also a great scrap buster!

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I have made this pattern in the Leo option twice with no issues (once in crushed velvet and once in Cotton Lycra), this is my first time with the Romper and I did have some issues with the neckline not wanting to stay put. I think it is a combination of too stretchy fabric and using my serger for the neck seam for the first time. I am positive if I had used clear elastic, it would have held fine. To fix it for my girl, I added these little ties after and I totally LOVE them, so I absolutely consider this a win.

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For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I determined my daughter’s size as 3T using the pattern size chart . ¬†Chest 20.5″, Waist 20.5″, Hips 21. She is 36″ tall. I opted to sew a straight 3T and did not do any grading as the legs are loose anyway. In ready to wear she usually wears a size 3T. ¬†I had the cutest little ballet flats picked out for this outfit, but she had other plans and I totally love her cowboy boot look.¬†

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I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

I highly suggest joining the Lil Luxe Group on Facebook to be inspired by all the beautiful creations others are making with this pattern.

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Lil Luxe Collection Alley Cat Romper
Pattern sizing: 18 months to Girls 10 (size chart available here)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes. Detailed information and line professional line drawings were provided for each step.
Fabric used: Cotton Lycra (maroon: bodice, sleeves, leg cuffs) and Double Brushed Poly (floral legs portion)
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes and No¬†…pattern suggests Medium Weight 2-Way knits with good recovery. But judging by the tester photos and others in the group it seems people are using Cotton Lycras and Brushed Polys with success. However my Maroon may have had a touch too much 4-way stretch as the neckline didn’t want to stay put and I had to add the back ties (which I LOVE). I have made this pattern before in the LEOTARD option with no issue, so I have to assume it was a fabric/user error.
Did you alter the pattern in any way?  I added the back ties post-construction, otherwise this is an exact to pattern 3T.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? My daughter loves it, so I am happy.
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 3/8″ throughout

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See you next time!

Mimi G Style+ Simplicity 1283 Review : DIY Ponte Pants

I bought Simplicity 1283 when it was first released (back in ’14?) and by the time I got to making it, my measurements said I needed to move up to the larger packet size! haha! Lesson learned, sew patterns when you get them! Anyway, the fit on Mimi is definitely why I purchased the pattern (both times).

I determined my size using the pattern chart. My measurements are: 33″ High Waist and 41″ hips. I cut a size 18 out of Ponte knit fabric. I found the youtube sew-a-long very helpful and did not use the pattern instructions at all.

Initially, I used a basting stitch to roughly put the pants together. I had already started the fit process on my left leg when I snapped this picture:

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I found the fit through the legs to be over all too large, compared to the envelope picture. As I have both size range envelopes, I decided to compare the patterns. The larger sizes seem to be graded with a less extreme curve through the knee. I’m guessing this has something to do with standard sizing, but it does explain why I had more of a straight leg look.

Next time I am going to use a more structured knit. I don’t like how it drapes below the knee in the front.

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In the end, I was very happy with this pattern and will sew it again. I did take it in quite a bit (also in the darts, and waistband), I think I can size down with success. I do expect to need to fit patterns for my unique body and am happy that the only changes needed were slimming it down.

Don’t forget this is a HIGH waist pattern. Personally, I love it, but I will likely take it down another half inch in the rise next time.

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Final result:

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THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Mimi G Style + Simplicity 1283
Pattern sizing: choose envelope: 6-14 or 16-24.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? I followed the YouTube sew-a-long
Fabric used: Ponte
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes
Did you alter the pattern in any way? Yes. I moved the rear zip to a side zip, just because it is my preference. I am 5‚Ä≤-2 and took my standard height adjustment out of the rise and I shortened about an inch in the thigh. (I left the rest long to account for 5″ heels). I took in from hips to knee significantly to achieve the look of the pattern cover.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? I only wish there wasn’t quite so much ease, but this is an issue for me with most patterns (be they paper or .pdf)
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner to Intermediate
Pants: Do the front and back have separate rises? Yes
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 5/8″

Here is how I am styling them in my everyday life. haha!

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The Vegas Sundress

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Jennifer Richardson just couldn’t wait any longer. The Vegas Sundress is¬†live and on sale for $6 now- Sunday.

****The 1st 24hrs of profits will be donated to purchase supplies for the Vegas shooting victims. ****

Directly from Jennifer:

“The first 24 hrs of profits will be going to purchase supplies to be donated to the Vegas shooting victims. A team of wonderful volunteers The Helpful Hoodlums collects and distributes much needed items to the 100’s of individuals and their families still here recovering from their injuries. Donations have slowed to an almost stand still, so I hope to help as many as we can! #VegasStrong spread the word- tell a friend- even if you don’t buy my pattern please check out the wonderful things the Helpful Hoodlums are doing and consider donating right to them.”

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The Vegas Sundress is a beautifully fitting camisole style dress with princess seams that flatter every body type and is a great basic for layering and with the lace up back option it can also make a big statement.

This pattern includes:

  • sizes XXS-XXXL (size chart available here)
  • Adobe Layers, to print only the size you need.
  • 4 different length options
    Top, mini, above the knee, and below the knee
  • 2 dress styles
    Basic, and open back lace up dress
  • It includes instructions for optional adjustable straps.
  • A written and picture tutorial
  • Works best with light weight knit style fabrics with nice drape:¬† Double Brushed Poly, Rayon Spandex, Stretch mesh‚Ķ

I used Rayon Spandex for mine, picked up at Angel Textiles in Fashion District in Downtown LA.  (tips for navigating the district and favorite stops along the way) 

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The pattern comes with beautifully finished stationary straps and is also available with adjustable straps. On mine, you can see that I have the finished stationary straps, as a shorty (and a tester) my straps were too long and I did have to shorten them after. Remember, most of us do not fit the “average” body type. This is a normal alteration for me and I love alterations. They make for a much better fit, so don’t be afraid to start altering your patterns to fit your body!

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The princess seams offer a nicely fitted torso and tons of fullness and flair through the hips….but not so much that your skirt is going to fly up. I tried many a spin/wind test and don’t worry, unless a hurricane comes along you will stay covered.

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Princess seams also make for very easy alterations if your body is more or less curvy than “Standard”. On this dress you see the standard front bodice fits well on me and is as intended. However, I have a full bust, short torso, and round tummy. ¬†Moving and slightly reshaping the curves on my princess seams, will provide a slightly better shaping for my unique body in the future. (I’m sure I will be the only one to notice, but that’s okay).

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I encourage everyone sewing for themselves to experiment with alterations. We should be sewing to produce the best fit for our individual and unique body types and that goes beyond “size blending”. But alterations aside, the Vegas Sundress is a great beginning knit sewing pattern too. You will learn some great new techniques and come away with a a new dress for your closet.

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I am really happy to have the Vegas Sundress in my pattern arsenal. I had a similar camisole type dress in my Amazon shopping cart for about a month, but knew that I would get a much better fit and better quality if I could make one. So thank you Jennifer for filling that gap for me. I will definitely be adding some more of these to my capsule.

Join the fun over on Facebook and sew up the Vegas Sundress with some new friends!

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*** For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I used XL graded to L in the hips (My 
current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips)  and I am 5′-2″

DIY Moto Joggers

You can choose your favorite Jogger Pattern. For my son, I prefer the Patterns for Pirates Baby Bear Joggers.

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Now don’t be intimidated, this hack will only effect your front pattern piece and construction method for the pants will not change.

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First get your pattern printed off and then it is time to free style.

Determine your knee line, then decide how large you would like your knee patch (you can see that I chose to have about a 5.5″ inch in length knee patch), but you can decide how big you would like your patch.

***Consider patch placement, if you would like the patch evenly above and below the knee then you will want to make sure your knee patch piece is centered around your knee line.

Full disclosure: my son was asleep so I eyeballed where I wanted the patch. So don’t be afraid to dive in blindly, like me. haha!

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Go ahead and slice your front pattern piece into 3. Then cut your fabric (mine is a French Terry from Michael Levine with rayon/spandex for cuffs and waistand), remember to add seam allowance to your new cut lines!

Now I took just my knee patches, drew my preferred stitch lines on the back, in my case I used a .5″ spacing in a cross hatch pattern and then you will top stitch.

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Since this pattern is drafted for knits, I went with a triple zig zag stitch (stretch stitch) for the top stitching. You will likely get a little puckering as you sew, it’s okay, just press it every now and again and it will come out just fine.

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Note: If your machine wants to “eat” your fabric go ahead and stick a piece of tissue paper under it while sewing to help it feed through and then tear it away when you are done.

Now sew your pieces back together and top stitch, if desired.

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AND THAT IS IT. Follow the rest of the pattern instructions! It’s that easy!

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I am really happy with the finished look for my big guy’s 6th birthday. (But is he six or 16? Time is moving way too fast!)

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I love elastic, athletic style waistband that comes in this pattern.

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For more info on this method you can see my Stitch Upon a Time Goldilegs here.

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For the deepest discount, I recommend purchasing the P4P Jogger Patterns in the family bundle.

And please join the community and be inspired by all the amazing creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

*** You will find some affiliate links in this post. Click them before you purchase your patterns if you would like to see more reviews at Clothed in Vermillion. Affiliate links will help me pay for more patterns … and fabric, of course. ***

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The NITTY GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Patterns for Pirates, Baby Bear Joggers: “jogger style with a relaxed looser top and tighter fitted calves…Comes with roll up hem, elastic hem, cuff hem, elastic waistband, yoga waistband, drawstring, slat pockets, and patch pockets! These are drafted for a more stable knit like french terry.”

Pattern sizing: Size 6, my son was right on the high end of a size 5, by measurments and I decided to sew up a size 6 so that he can get longer wear out of them.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? yes, lots of pictures are included in the tutorial.

Fabric used: Stretch French Terry

Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes

Did you alter the pattern in any way? Yes, I altered the front leg piece to add moto patch: INFO HERE

Was there anything you disliked or would change? No, I love this pattern and have used it a few times, my son loves it too. They are some of his favorites.

Would you sew it again? Yes, I’ve already sewn in a few times.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes

Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner

Seam allowance used in the pattern? 1/2″ (some seams are smaller, but are clearly noted)

Wiggle Fit Raglan

It’s no secret that I love the¬†Patterns for Pirates¬†Wiggle Dress PDF Pattern.

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But I also love a good pattern mash/mod to get a lot of life out of my patterns.

I browsed my Pinterest boards and the Wiggle Fit Raglan was born.

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This is super simple.

Grab the Slim Fit Raglan Pattern  The front on this mod is super straight forward, you cut the Slim Fit Raglan Sleeves and neckbands (armbands if applicable). And then for the bodice I cut the SFR from the neckline down to the the armpit and lined up my Wiggle Dress at the armsyce/armpit point (what is that called?) and used the wiggle all the way down to the above knee length.

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Rear view is exactly the same but you will need to account for the seamed back piece, because you definitely want to hold onto the built-in sway back adjustment on the Wiggle.

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Construction is completed by method described in the patterns. I used each pattern instruction where applicable.

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The Rayon Spandex fabrics for this dress came from the¬†Fashion District in Downtown LA .¬†¬†My husband bought me a bolt of the leopard rayon spandex from JB Textiles and the stripes came from¬†Angel Textiles.¬†I love the pattern mixing here. I’ve already said, the Wiggle, in all it‚Äôs forms, is incredibly comfortable. ¬†But this is one you can wear all day, all around town. Which is why I have worn it a few times already.

This morning I was tired and in a hurry, I knew it would make up for my no-makeup and yesterday’s hair. I paired it with a tunic length Cocoon Cardigan with long bands (that has also been modified to have the Patterns for Pirates Henley inset Sleeve).

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….I wore this without shape wear as I have seen a lot of curious questions in the¬†Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.¬†

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Some more styling ideas I found for you on my Pinterest boards.

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For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I used XL graded to L in the hips (My
current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips) and did my standard height adjustments to account for my 5‚Ä≤-2‚Ä≥ frame as the pattern is drafted for 5‚Ä≤‚Äď5‚Ä≥.¬†

Checkout all the Wiggle release festivities, view photos of all the options available, checkout the mods and snag the pattern by Novemeber 1st to get the sale price at Patterns for Pirates).

I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion to check-out all the Wiggles I have sewn for my closet!

And please join the community and be inspired by all the Wiggle Dress creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group. I hope to see you in there and sew along with you!

***Update: 10-28-17 I have added affiliate links to this post. Click them before you purchase your patterns if you would like to see more reviews at Clothed in Vermillion. Affiliate links will help me pay for more patterns and fabric, of course. ***

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Made for Mermaids Ava: Scuba Dress

Made for Mermaids Ava and the Mama Ava  Patterns have been favorites in our home since their release last year. It is just the perfect bodice for my daughter and fits well according to her measurements. Here is my baby girl last fall in the mid-length sleeve, curved tunic option.

 

Ava comes together so quickly and finishes beautifully. It is also a work horse in our house. I know it well and often use it when I need to sew something up quick for my babe.

She loves beautiful florals and when she saw this scuba come home from Angel Textiles after a trip to the Downtown LA Fashion District, I knew I wanted to sew it up quick. So I grabbed Ava and got to work to make this beautiful little dress.

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I used the bodice as is, with those mid-length sleeves again, because I love the length on her. And when cutting, I cropped the bodice about 3 inches below the armsyce. Then just cut 2 rectangles of leftover fabric for the front and back of the skirt. Each rectangle is cut to correspond with the front and back bodice pieces at approx. 1.75 times the width (and as long as desired). Sew up the side seams. Pin bodice and skirt side seams, pin center front and center back and serge the skirt to the bodice pulling the bodice to fit the skirt piece (I highly recommend adding clear elastic while serging to help support the weight of the skirt and to gather it in).

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Instead of fighting with a scuba neckband, I opted to finished with Fold Over Elastic. (I find the best deals for FOE on¬†Ebay). I like to baste it on with a zig-zag stitch to the wrong side of the fabric, then fold over and triple zig–zag top stitch.

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Hem and you are done! ¬†It’s perfect for special occasions or dress up and comfortable enough for playtime.

 

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I know she will get a lot of use out of this dress and that we will get even more use out of the Ava pattern. (And stay tuned to see how I used this fabric to sew something awesome for myself from the newest Patterns for Pirates Pattern about to drop!)

SONY DSCAnd in case your little is creative with the scissors too… you might be interested in knowing that I picked up this bow in a rainbow set of 50 from Amazon and they are doing the trick to kinda disguise the Owen Wilson haircut she gave herself.