SOS Pants from Patterns for Pirates

Patterns for Pirates revamped and re-released the SOS Pants a little over year ago and after nearly a year in maternity clothes (plus post partum) I felt really ready for real pants. Or at least pull-on pants with a little stretchy forgiveness.

I made 3 pairs in stretch twill and one pair in stretch french terry.

I’m really happy with the fit straight out of the package, my only alteration here is for height, I can see that I probably need to remove more, but I am trying to be less nit-picky with my makes.

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The white pair was my first muslin and the orange was maybe my second? This was during testing, so the fit is improving from the changes to the pattern itself and also to me taking height out more accurately.

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I decided after this pair to try using stretch mesh to line the pockets to prevent lines showing from the pockets.

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The stretch mesh pocket lining was a success, as you can see the pocket lines are much less visible on this stretch French Terry pair.

Speaking of French Terry, I usually shop in Fashion District in LA. If you are a local or are heading to the area, you definitely want to check the tips for navigating the district. If you are ordering fabric you are going to need: as little as 1 1/2 yards to as much 2 5/8 (depending on options you choose and your size)

P4P is always great at beautiful, quick construction patterns and I love that! It really helps for boosting your handmade wardrobe quickly.

The SOS Pants are an intermediate sewing pattern in knit with skinny and straight leg option! Skinny leg option is fitted throughout leg to ankle. Straight leg option is fitted through hip/booty, then loose/straight through leg for a flattering and dressier option. Both options include knit/enclosed elastic waistband, back yokes, front and back pocket options. Suggested fabrics are ponte roma and medium/heavy weight jegging denim knit.

For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I determined my size using the pattern chart, I am an XL waist graded to L in the hips and M in the legs (My current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips). I did my standard height adjustments to account for my 5′-2″ frame as the pattern is drafted for 5′–5″.

I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

And please join the community and be inspired by all the Patterns for Pirates creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Pattern for Pirates SOS Pants
Pattern sizing: XXS-3X
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes.
Fabric used: Stretch Twill and French Terry
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes
Did you alter the pattern in any way? I am 5′-2 and took my standard height adjustment
Was there anything you disliked or would change? No.
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner Pants Pattern, especially as it does not require any zip or fly construction.
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 1/2

Alley Cat Romper from Lil Luxe Collection

Lil Luxe Collection is a beautiful modern-classic clothing pattern design company from a self-taught garment designer with a serious background in the areas of Architecture, Interior, Graphic and Fashion Design. Her background in Architecture really shows with her “Urban Princess” looks. Read her full bio here (I love when designers make the time to let us know more about themselves). The Alley Cat Collection is my first purchase from Lil Luxe and I’m sure it will not be the last (she has some truly swoon-worthy dresses).  I selected it with my little casual, acrobatics loving, girl in mind.

And it did not disappoint. She clearly loves it.

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The Alley Cat has lots of great options. I bought the full pattern collection, which includes Romper, Leotard and Dress.  To best suit your needs, you can buy the collection as a complete set, just the leo and top, just the romper and dress, or just the romper and leo.  All options include long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless and the bodice is fully lined.

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I usually shop in Fashion District in LA and both of these fabrics came from downtown. If you are a local or are heading to the area, you definitely want to check the tips for navigating the district. Bonus: In the smaller sizes, this project is also a great scrap buster!

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I have made this pattern in the Leo option twice with no issues (once in crushed velvet and once in Cotton Lycra), this is my first time with the Romper and I did have some issues with the neckline not wanting to stay put. I think it is a combination of too stretchy fabric and using my serger for the neck seam for the first time. I am positive if I had used clear elastic, it would have held fine. To fix it for my girl, I added these little ties after and I totally LOVE them, so I absolutely consider this a win.

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For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I determined my daughter’s size as 3T using the pattern size chart .  Chest 20.5″, Waist 20.5″, Hips 21. She is 36″ tall. I opted to sew a straight 3T and did not do any grading as the legs are loose anyway. In ready to wear she usually wears a size 3T.  I had the cutest little ballet flats picked out for this outfit, but she had other plans and I totally love her cowboy boot look. 

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I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

I highly suggest joining the Lil Luxe Group on Facebook to be inspired by all the beautiful creations others are making with this pattern.

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Lil Luxe Collection Alley Cat Romper
Pattern sizing: 18 months to Girls 10 (size chart available here)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes. Detailed information and line professional line drawings were provided for each step.
Fabric used: Cotton Lycra (maroon: bodice, sleeves, leg cuffs) and Double Brushed Poly (floral legs portion)
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes and No …pattern suggests Medium Weight 2-Way knits with good recovery. But judging by the tester photos and others in the group it seems people are using Cotton Lycras and Brushed Polys with success. However my Maroon may have had a touch too much 4-way stretch as the neckline didn’t want to stay put and I had to add the back ties (which I LOVE). I have made this pattern before in the LEOTARD option with no issue, so I have to assume it was a fabric/user error.
Did you alter the pattern in any way?  I added the back ties post-construction, otherwise this is an exact to pattern 3T.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? My daughter loves it, so I am happy.
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 3/8″ throughout

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See you next time!

RagDoll Raglan from Patterns for Pirates

Patterns for Pirates  has got us covered with the changing seasons and the cooler weather. The new RagDoll Raglan is just MADE for cozy coffee drinking, and book reading. But I also love a slouchy tee or tunic to get me through basically EVERY. SINGLE. DAY.

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I’m in the stage of life where I am a mom of 3 little ones, so I can use any extra ease a pattern will give me.

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If you love pattern mixing, you are going to LOVE this pattern for showcasing beautiful fabrics and unexpected pairings.  This new pattern is described as “straight through the body and loose fit throughout, besides being fitted at the lower arms. It has a wide, low neckline … with a thicker than average neckband. If you use a very stretchy fabric you can pull the wide neckline off one shoulder…” and it is perfect for styling with slim fit pants, leggings, or pencil skirts.

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I am unashamedly in LOVE with rayon spandex fabric and the RagDoll is perfect for it! When I started getting serious about sewing my own clothes, I checked the tags on all my favorite store bought items and basically everything was a Rayon Spandex blend. So I started stocking up.  I usually shop in Fashion District in LA. f you are a local or are heading to the area, you definitely want to check the tips for navigating the district. If you are ordering fabric you are going to need: as little as 1 1/2 yards to as much 2 5/8 (depending on options you choose and your size)

P4P is always great at beautiful, quick construction patterns and I love that! It really helps for boosting your handmade wardrobe quickly and the RagDoll is also Capsule Wardrobe friendly. It is a great go-to that you will wear all the time.

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The RagDoll has lots of options so that you can stock your closet without looking like you are on repeat.  Half sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, long sleeve with or without cuffs. Shirt and tunic length come with a curve and there is also a banded top length (that hits between a shirt and tunic length). Lastly there is dress length for a casual t-shirt dress look. The open back option is a really nice way to take my mom uniform (a black or grey tunic) up a notch and I really like how it finishes.

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For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I determined my size using the pattern chart, I am an XL graded to L in the hips (My current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips). I did my standard height adjustments to account for my 5′-2″ frame as the pattern is drafted for 5′–5″. 

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Hurry and checkout all the RagDoll Raglan sale and view photos of all the options available. Don’t forget to checkout the mods, that will give you even more options for this cozy top at Patterns for Pirates

I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion so that we can share our sewing projects, tips and tricks with each other.

And please join the community and be inspired by all the Patterns for Pirates creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

***You will find some affiliate links in this post. Click them before you purchase your patterns if you would like to see more reviews at Clothed in Vermillion. Affiliate links will help me pay for more patterns and fabric, of course. ***

THE NITTY-GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Pattern for Pirates RagDoll Raglan
Pattern sizing: XXS-3X
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes, I especially like the finish for the open back option.
Fabric used: ITY (the plaid sleeves only) and Rayon Spandex (everything else)
Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes
Did you alter the pattern in any way?  I am 5′-2 and took my standard height adjustment from the midriff.
Was there anything you disliked or would change? For my personal shape and preference, I might take it in more from waist to hip in the future. Thankfully this is a personal alteration that can be done post-construction.
Would you sew it again? Yes
Would you recommend it to others? Yes
Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner
Seam allowance used in the pattern? 1/2″

Here is how I am styling them in my everyday life. haha! I am also wearing a pair of Hey June Mountain Pose pants in stretch French Terry, learn how to get this pattern free here on the Hey June Handmade blog.

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The Vegas Sundress

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Jennifer Richardson just couldn’t wait any longer. The Vegas Sundress is live and on sale for $6 now- Sunday.

****The 1st 24hrs of profits will be donated to purchase supplies for the Vegas shooting victims. ****

Directly from Jennifer:

“The first 24 hrs of profits will be going to purchase supplies to be donated to the Vegas shooting victims. A team of wonderful volunteers The Helpful Hoodlums collects and distributes much needed items to the 100’s of individuals and their families still here recovering from their injuries. Donations have slowed to an almost stand still, so I hope to help as many as we can! #VegasStrong spread the word- tell a friend- even if you don’t buy my pattern please check out the wonderful things the Helpful Hoodlums are doing and consider donating right to them.”

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The Vegas Sundress is a beautifully fitting camisole style dress with princess seams that flatter every body type and is a great basic for layering and with the lace up back option it can also make a big statement.

This pattern includes:

  • sizes XXS-XXXL (size chart available here)
  • Adobe Layers, to print only the size you need.
  • 4 different length options
    Top, mini, above the knee, and below the knee
  • 2 dress styles
    Basic, and open back lace up dress
  • It includes instructions for optional adjustable straps.
  • A written and picture tutorial
  • Works best with light weight knit style fabrics with nice drape:  Double Brushed Poly, Rayon Spandex, Stretch mesh…

I used Rayon Spandex for mine, picked up at Angel Textiles in Fashion District in Downtown LA.  (tips for navigating the district and favorite stops along the way

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The pattern comes with beautifully finished stationary straps and is also available with adjustable straps. On mine, you can see that I have the finished stationary straps, as a shorty (and a tester) my straps were too long and I did have to shorten them after. Remember, most of us do not fit the “average” body type. This is a normal alteration for me and I love alterations. They make for a much better fit, so don’t be afraid to start altering your patterns to fit your body!

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The princess seams offer a nicely fitted torso and tons of fullness and flair through the hips….but not so much that your skirt is going to fly up. I tried many a spin/wind test and don’t worry, unless a hurricane comes along you will stay covered.

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Princess seams also make for very easy alterations if your body is more or less curvy than “Standard”. On this dress you see the standard front bodice fits well on me and is as intended. However, I have a full bust, short torso, and round tummy.  Moving and slightly reshaping the curves on my princess seams, will provide a slightly better shaping for my unique body in the future. (I’m sure I will be the only one to notice, but that’s okay).

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I encourage everyone sewing for themselves to experiment with alterations. We should be sewing to produce the best fit for our individual and unique body types and that goes beyond “size blending”. But alterations aside, the Vegas Sundress is a great beginning knit sewing pattern too. You will learn some great new techniques and come away with a a new dress for your closet.

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I am really happy to have the Vegas Sundress in my pattern arsenal. I had a similar camisole type dress in my Amazon shopping cart for about a month, but knew that I would get a much better fit and better quality if I could make one. So thank you Jennifer for filling that gap for me. I will definitely be adding some more of these to my capsule.

Join the fun over on Facebook and sew up the Vegas Sundress with some new friends!

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*** For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I used XL graded to L in the hips (My 
current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips)  and I am 5′-2″

DIY Moto Joggers

You can choose your favorite Jogger Pattern. For my son, I prefer the Patterns for Pirates Baby Bear Joggers.

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Now don’t be intimidated, this hack will only effect your front pattern piece and construction method for the pants will not change.

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First get your pattern printed off and then it is time to free style.

Determine your knee line, then decide how large you would like your knee patch (you can see that I chose to have about a 5.5″ inch in length knee patch), but you can decide how big you would like your patch.

***Consider patch placement, if you would like the patch evenly above and below the knee then you will want to make sure your knee patch piece is centered around your knee line.

Full disclosure: my son was asleep so I eyeballed where I wanted the patch. So don’t be afraid to dive in blindly, like me. haha!

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Go ahead and slice your front pattern piece into 3. Then cut your fabric (mine is a French Terry from Michael Levine with rayon/spandex for cuffs and waistand), remember to add seam allowance to your new cut lines!

Now I took just my knee patches, drew my preferred stitch lines on the back, in my case I used a .5″ spacing in a cross hatch pattern and then you will top stitch.

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Since this pattern is drafted for knits, I went with a triple zig zag stitch (stretch stitch) for the top stitching. You will likely get a little puckering as you sew, it’s okay, just press it every now and again and it will come out just fine.

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Note: If your machine wants to “eat” your fabric go ahead and stick a piece of tissue paper under it while sewing to help it feed through and then tear it away when you are done.

Now sew your pieces back together and top stitch, if desired.

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AND THAT IS IT. Follow the rest of the pattern instructions! It’s that easy!

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I am really happy with the finished look for my big guy’s 6th birthday. (But is he six or 16? Time is moving way too fast!)

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I love elastic, athletic style waistband that comes in this pattern.

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For more info on this method you can see my Stitch Upon a Time Goldilegs here.

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For the deepest discount, I recommend purchasing the P4P Jogger Patterns in the family bundle.

And please join the community and be inspired by all the amazing creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

*** You will find some affiliate links in this post. Click them before you purchase your patterns if you would like to see more reviews at Clothed in Vermillion. Affiliate links will help me pay for more patterns … and fabric, of course. ***

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The NITTY GRITTY:

Pattern Description: Patterns for Pirates, Baby Bear Joggers: “jogger style with a relaxed looser top and tighter fitted calves…Comes with roll up hem, elastic hem, cuff hem, elastic waistband, yoga waistband, drawstring, slat pockets, and patch pockets! These are drafted for a more stable knit like french terry.”

Pattern sizing: Size 6, my son was right on the high end of a size 5, by measurments and I decided to sew up a size 6 so that he can get longer wear out of them.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were finished sewing? Yes
Were the instructions complete and easy to follow? yes, lots of pictures are included in the tutorial.

Fabric used: Stretch French Terry

Did you use the recommended fabrics in the pattern: Yes

Did you alter the pattern in any way? Yes, I altered the front leg piece to add moto patch: INFO HERE

Was there anything you disliked or would change? No, I love this pattern and have used it a few times, my son loves it too. They are some of his favorites.

Would you sew it again? Yes, I’ve already sewn in a few times.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes

Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced? Beginner

Seam allowance used in the pattern? 1/2″ (some seams are smaller, but are clearly noted)

Wiggle Dress: Full Length Gown

When you need something extra special in a hurry, the Patterns for Pirates Wiggle Dress PDF Pattern is going to be your best friend.

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I knew I wanted to give the full length option a try because it just looked incredible on every single person that had already sewn it! I opted for the 3/4 Sleeve as it is my personal favorite length for my body shape and of course went off-the-shoulder because…I cannot stop sewing the off-the-shoulder option.

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I checked my stash from my last trip to the Fashion District in Downtown LA  and when I couldn’t decide which fabric to pick, I asked some of the ladies from the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group to pick for me. Someone picked this plaid Liverpool from Angel Textiles and the result is pretty awesome. It’s just perfect for the coming Holiday season. Fabric choices are everything and this plaid dressed it down a little. If you are going someplace extra special check out the more formal fabric options that have been sewn up.

And I’ve got to say, that neckline DOES NOT BUDGE.  I can promise you, you will not need to adjust all day/night long! Don’t worry about sewing it either, it finishes beautifully and quite easily.

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The Wiggle, in all it’s forms, is also incredibly comfortable.  Like, seriously, The days I wear one, I do not find the need to change when I get home to relax, because I am already THAT comfortable. I know you want to roll your eyes at that…because we all have clothes that we wear the second we come home. But seriously, I am finding myself wearing the Wiggle from morning to night.

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…and can we take a minute to talk about the back shaping again? It is going to do you ALL KINDS of favors. The pattern comes with a built in sway back adjustment so it will hug your curves.

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…and in my case make me feel like some kind of Christmas Tree Farm Model. LOL!

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For the detail oriented seamstresses out there: I used XL graded to L in the hips (My
current measurements are 36 Overbust, 41 Bust, 33 High Waist, 41 hips) and did my standard height adjustments to account for my 5′-2″ frame as the pattern is drafted for 5′–5″. 

Checkout all the Wiggle release festivities, view photos of all the options available, checkout the mods and snag the pattern by Novemeber 1st to get the sale price at Patterns for Pirates).

I’d love if you would stay tuned here, or follow me on IG @clothed.in.vermillion to check-out all the Wiggles I have sewn for my closet!

And please join the community and be inspired by all the Wiggle Dress creations over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group. I hope to see you in there and sew along with you!

***Update: 10-28-17 I have added affiliate links to this post. Click them before you purchase your patterns if you would like to see more reviews at Clothed in Vermillion. Affiliate links will help me pay for more patterns and fabric, of course. ***

Made for Mermaids Ava: Scuba Dress

Made for Mermaids Ava and the Mama Ava  Patterns have been favorites in our home since their release last year. It is just the perfect bodice for my daughter and fits well according to her measurements. Here is my baby girl last fall in the mid-length sleeve, curved tunic option.

 

Ava comes together so quickly and finishes beautifully. It is also a work horse in our house. I know it well and often use it when I need to sew something up quick for my babe.

She loves beautiful florals and when she saw this scuba come home from Angel Textiles after a trip to the Downtown LA Fashion District, I knew I wanted to sew it up quick. So I grabbed Ava and got to work to make this beautiful little dress.

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I used the bodice as is, with those mid-length sleeves again, because I love the length on her. And when cutting, I cropped the bodice about 3 inches below the armsyce. Then just cut 2 rectangles of leftover fabric for the front and back of the skirt. Each rectangle is cut to correspond with the front and back bodice pieces at approx. 1.75 times the width (and as long as desired). Sew up the side seams. Pin bodice and skirt side seams, pin center front and center back and serge the skirt to the bodice pulling the bodice to fit the skirt piece (I highly recommend adding clear elastic while serging to help support the weight of the skirt and to gather it in).

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Instead of fighting with a scuba neckband, I opted to finished with Fold Over Elastic. (I find the best deals for FOE on Ebay). I like to baste it on with a zig-zag stitch to the wrong side of the fabric, then fold over and triple zig–zag top stitch.

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Hem and you are done!  It’s perfect for special occasions or dress up and comfortable enough for playtime.

 

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I know she will get a lot of use out of this dress and that we will get even more use out of the Ava pattern. (And stay tuned to see how I used this fabric to sew something awesome for myself from the newest Patterns for Pirates Pattern about to drop!)

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Fabric Shopping 101: Downtown Los Angeles Fashion District

So you want to shop the district? Don’t be intimidated! It’s awesome and totally worth braving LA traffic.

What do the boy scouts say? Always be prepared? It’s the first step to bringing home amazing fabrics at deeply discounted prices.

  1. Bring cash, it’s not 100% necessary. You can find plenty of shops that accept cards. But for discounts on the street and food from the vendors, I highly recommend bringing at least a little.
  2. Bring a cart or stroller (or a strong armed assistant). I confess, I love to have my kids with me, they are a great excuse to bring a stroller. But last time I borrowed this cart found on from my mom and it was perfect.
  3. Plan your route ahead
  4. For the deepest discounts be prepared to haggle and buying in larger quantities helps.

Stop first at Fabric Merchants, 1430 S Grande Vista Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90023.  It is a great way to ease into the district. It is a few minutes outside the city and parking is free.

 

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They have a discount bin out front and a great selection of apparel fabrics inside. If you are excited to shop the district, but intimidated by downtown, this is the perfect place for you. Steve, the owner, is nice and personable and his staff is  kind, and super helpful. Bring swatches if you have them and ask for help, they can assist you in finding exactly what you need quickly.

Now it’s time to head into the heart of the district. When my husband drives he usually snags street parking. Brush up on your parallel parking if you are going to go this route. I generally like to park in the lot on San Julian between Olympic and 9th. Depending on the day it will cost between $3-5 for the day.

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Any of the lots in the area are fine. The cost of parking is worth the trip, I promise.

When I am just browsing, I head to the Michael Levine Loft first. The Loft is across the street from the Michael Levine retail store (920 Maple Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90015) It is a legend and shouldn’t be missed.

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A pay by the pound treasure hunt. I have found all kinds of great fabrics here…but be warned there is a time warp in there and you could easily spend most of your time digging to the bottom of those bins. So try to stay focused and make it quick. You are welcome to cut any of the fabrics here.

LA Alex is a hidden gem. I buy my serger thread, plain elastics, zippers, and stretch denims in here. Their rolls of elastic and cone threads are the cheapest I have found.

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Angel Textiles & JB Textiles

Angel is my favorite spot in the district. They offer great prices, are organized, know what they have and give generous cuts. Rayon Spandex Prints and Solids, Cotton Spandex, Liverpools, Ponte, and Sweater Knits are my favorite finds here.  They have a huge selection and I feel I have only scratched the surface. I have spent as little as $2 a yard and as much as $5 a yard. The guys here are super helpful, will pull and carry your bolts for you and are just all around nice guys.

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JB textiles has a great selection of prints and I often find a few treasures in there, again amazing deals. Just like their neighbor, they are worth browsing.

If you parked where I did, on your way out, stop at Target Trim to grab any elastics or trim you need for your projects. This place is epic. I think they have any trim you could dream up and are floor to ceiling, jam packed.

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Cheat Sheet:

Bargain Bin Shopping: Michael Levine Loft, Fabric Merchants

Plain Elastic, Zippers, Boning, Cone Thread: LA Alex

Decorative Elastics, Plush Elastics, Trim: Target Trim

Sweater Knits: Fabric Merchants, Angel Textiles

Sweatshirt Knits: Fabric Merchants

Lightweight Apparel Wovens: Fabric Merchants, Micheal Levine Loft, Angel, Street Vendors

Stretch Denim: LA Alex, Angel

Rayon Spandex: Angel, JB, Fabric Merchants

Cotton Lycra: (I haven’t featured her as I have never been, but I hear Purple Seamstress is the place to go.) I find mine at Fabric Merchants and Angel

Brushed Poly: Fabric Merchants, JB, Angel

I’m sure there are many more places to shop and that many of these places offer a complete variety of fabrics. These are just my favorites. I encourage you to go on an adventure and find your own favorite spots!

To stay up to date and in the know regarding fabric shopping in Southern California I suggest joining this Facebook group.

Happy Shopping! Let me know if you find other great spots or better deals!